| Recommended days | 4 |
| Budget | £ |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Ah, Paris. Quite ridiculous that I’ve travelled to the other side of the world but not to our closest neighbour! We decided to rectify this with a Paris city break as a group trip, both to see the highlights of the city and for Steve to meet his sister. We were somewhat wary due to pretty much everyone I know that has visited the city being pickpocketed but there are always risks with life.
There are obviously lots of guides to Paris but Amelia’s site has some great options so check out here if you’re looking for ideas.
We had a very short flight (less time than to get to Edinburgh!) and were soon landing at Charles de Gaulle. We took a taxi to our hotel as we were lazy and it was just the easy option with luggage. As it was a late evening flight check in and unpacking was it for our first day.
Saint Chapelle
After breakfast on Friday our first stop was Saint Chapelle. After finding the metro near the hotel (via a detour to the car wash!) we fought our way on through crowds that would have made a Tokyo commuter blush. 40 sweaty minutes later we exited into Ile de la Cite and walked to Saint Chapelle.
We were there about 9.30 so a very small queue for the security check and then we were inside. The first chapel was very small and dark and I thought I’d got the wrong place until we found an unmarked side door that led up to the main chapel. Absolutely breathtaking! Almost floor to ceiling stained glass and a flood of light and colour.
Notre Dame
Notre Dame was next on the list and we wandered through the streets into the square with the statue of Charlemagne and the huge, meandering queue of tourists. We actually got in pretty quickly and left pretty quickly too.
After a coffee stop Mum and I joined the queue for the towers whilst Steve and Deb went off to meet Elaine. An hour and 2 downpours later we were still in the queue ….. We eventually got in after about 80 minutes and climbed the many steps to the first viewing platform, with the grotesques on and amazing views.
After walking round this platform we carried on up the spiral staircase to the very top platform. Quite incredible views from there and those alone made the wait worthwhile.
Conciergerie
We then descended and met the others where they then went for lunch and Mum and I went to Conciergerie as we didn’t want to waste time eating. There was an interesting display there on prisons in the revolutionary period including that of Marie Antoinette.
Pantheon
When we came out they were still eating so we had a coffee before doing a bit more exploring of Ile de la Cite and then heading to the Pantheon where Elaine left us to our own devices. This was quite a simple building but very effective inside with impressive murals.
Jardins du Luxembourg
After a dinner stop at McD’s to dodge the rain we walked to Jardins du Luxembourg. There was a school from London performing at the band stand with a decent sized crowd there and we then walked down to the lake in front of the palace.
There was a huge map of Europe showing the WW1 campaigns but it absolutely hammered down so we sheltered under the trees before heading back on a tortuous metro journey (2 wrong stops and 1n hour later) to the hotel. 2 hours later I had sorted through the damned pictures and was ready for a shower and bed – just over 11 miles walking!
Eiffel Tower
Saturday was a later start, in fact it was a positively lethargic 9.30 before we left the hotel! Took the metro straight to Les Invalides (or the station after it as we didn’t realise we needed to press a button to open the train doors to get off!). Our intention was to go straight to the museum but as the weather was nice we headed to the Eiffel Tower instead.
It was on that trip we discovered Steve’s muggers wallet had been stolen whilst on the metro – bastards! The area around the tower was very crowded and the blue skies turned to rain clouds as we were doused with a quick shower or two. Rather than do the river cruise we then headed to Les Invalides for a coffee and snack.
Les Invalides
The museum there is massive, it really dwarfs the Imperial War Museum and although it didn’t have as many large scale exhibits like tanks, the sheer number of weapons and armour on display was breathtaking. Room after room of suits of armour, stacked up like dormant robots.
The WW1 and WW2 sections were interesting although the WW2 section obviously overplayed French involvement after 1940 and exaggerated their importance. There was an excellent floor of the museum that held scale models of all the fortifications made in the 18th and 19th century and compared them with photos of what is there now. There were several sections – such an exhibition on the Musketeers – that we didn’t have time to visit.
Tomb of Napoleon I
Our final stop was the tomb of Napoleon I, in a huge gilded dome church. As Steve pointed out, it’s a bit strange that the 19th century’s equivalent of Hitler, is so revered in France!
The tomb was, obviously, quite impressive. A quick metro trip (keeping careful watch on bags and pockets) and back to the hotel for a coffee by 5PM. Quiet day really, just over 9 miles walking.
Sunday 25th was not a day of rest for us. I had a lovely route planned out (about 25 miles!) but we were spared the first part because the Arc d’Triomphe was being restored and the viewing platforms were closed.
Pont Alexandre III
From the metro we headed to Pont Alexandre III – the most famous and beautiful bridge in Paris. It certainly lived up to its reputation and although the weather wasn’t brilliant the views were. From there we ambled down the north bank of the Seine and then crossed to the cruise ships by the Eiffel Tower.
Seine River Cruise
We sat and had a crepe and coffee (very French – the coffee was about a thimble full!) and then inflicted a river cruise upon ourselves.
The boat was packed although we were lucky enough to get edge seats but viewing and photography were difficult due to the speed of the boat – far quicker than the London boats so if you weren’t focussed in the right area you missed things. It seemed mostly a way of flogging tat souvenirs and photos to tourists.
Anyway, at least it gave our feet a rest before walking along the north bank again, through the Jardin Tuilerie (where Steve escaped home with Elaine) and to the Louvre. The unity of the buildings, all being built or restored in a similar style, seems to be unique to Paris. The size of the palaces is quite ridiculous but on the plus side, there were lots of police about.
We ate on Ile de la Cite (best meal of the holiday – salmon burger in satay sauce and fries!) and then trudged on to Notre Dame. We passed several bridges covered and I do mean covered, in locks. Why?! We walked to the east end of the island to do a circuit of Notre Dame. There was a couple getting married in the grounds, lovely setting but no other guests or relatives which was a bit sad. Unless they were just nasty people.
Mum had to be back at 7.30 to go out on another meal so we were deprived of the chance to walk back and burn off even more calories! We hired a cycle taxi, absolutely brilliant! Three of us (very) cramped on the back seat, dodging traffic whilst the poor kid had to cycle us to the metro.
He seemed happy though and very helpful and after another hideously cramped metro journey we got Mum back to Elaine’s for 19.30 and we finally got back to the hotel after 8PM.
Long and tiring day. Deb was asleep by 8.15 and then I dragged her awake at 11 for a trip to the bar where she had a wine that made the thimble sized coffee seem generous, for €7. Maybe that explains why we haven’t seen any drunk people!
Monmartre
Our final day (26th May) was a bit of a lazy start – we didn’t leave the hotel until 10AM! We walked to Elaine’s and then Deb stayed there and the rest of us caught the bus to Montmartre. Yes, that’s right – using public transport! We got off in a seedy area next to Moulin Rouge and assorted sex shops, sex shows and ‘private theatres’. Kinda lost its glamour at 11AM on a wet Monday morning!
Sacre Coeur
We walked past the souvenir shops and ambled towards Sacre Coeur. I walked up the steps whilst the others took the furnicular. We went in to the church but there was a service on and you couldn’t take photos anyway so we came out again.
The viewing platform with allegedly panoramic views was closed so that was pretty poo. We ambled around a bit more, had a crepe (nutella and banana) and then walked back to the bus stop. Bit of an anti climatic trip really.
On the way to Elaine’s we stopped at the boulangerie and picked up some lush cakes and a couple of slices of pizza. Elaine had prepared a very nice salad (if you like that kind of thing) so I had pizza and cake. Steve wasn’t well so he went to bed. Back to the UK by 8PM – very tired but we had crammed a lot in so next time we go it can be more chilled!
As always, this wasn’t a relaxing city break. There is a huge amount to see in Paris so we did lots of walking and the metro was both crime ridden and crowded (they probably go together!) so walking was actually the best option.
The city centre has an amazing unity thanks to Haussmann’s rebuilding of the 19th century and it is a very pretty place to wander around. For our next Paris city break it’d be nice to go in winter when it is hopefully quieter and we can focus on visiting the museums in the inevitable bad weather!
2014
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